In the extreme north-west of Madhya Pradesh, only a few hours from Agra by train or road, Gwalior is famous for its very old and very large fort. Within the fort walls there are a number of interesting temples and ruined palaces. The dramatic colourful history of the great fort certainly goes back over a thousand years. Gwalior's legendary beginning stems from a meeting between Suraj Sen and the hermit Gwalipa, who lived on the hilltop where the fort stands. The hermit cured Suraj Sen of leprosy with a drink of water from the Suraj Kund, which still remains in the fort. Then he gave him a new name, Suhan Pal, and said his descendants would remain in power so long as they kept the name Pal. His next 83 descendants did just that but number 84 changed his name to Tej Karan and, you guessed it, goodbye kingdom.